Settle in this is an epic...
You will need:
- Required fabric (check the packet for amounts dependent on size)
- Pins
- Scissors
- 16” zip
- Chalk
Get all your sewing ingredients out and here we go!
Top tip – wash
your fabric first so that it shrinks now and not after you’ve spent all
that time making the perfect dress ;-)
Step 1 – choose
your weapon.
I chose view D – the
pencil skirt version with no sleeves. Grab the packet and take a look at the
sizing. These patterns show the finished measurements so make sure you
allow for breathing room! I fell between
two sizes so used a 12 on top and a 14 at the waist and hip.
Once you’ve chosen, take your pattern and either cut or
trace your pieces. I’m one of those types who traces everything because I like
to keep the pattern intact. Yes I am fun at parties. Don’t forget all your
notches and grainlines!
Step 2 – Cut it
out and mark it up
With the right sides
of your fabric facing each other, fold the fabric in half – if you’re using a
print ensure this is the correct way up for your pattern pieces! Pin or weight
your pattern pieces down, paying attention to put the right pieces on the fold
where indicated.
When cutting the
pieces, I like to cut the notches sticking out so I can see them.
As for the darts, you
need to transfer these to your fabric. I recently learnt this way from The Fabric Wrangler and find it’s very accurate. Take some red or contrasting
cotton and make a tailor’s tack at the point, going through the pattern piece
and both layers of fabric. When you come to taking off your pattern piece –
just pinch the cotton through the paper. Then between the 2 layers of fabric
snip the threads – voila, darts are marked on both sides!
Step 3 – Play darts
Once all your pattern pieces are marked you can draw your
darts back in with chalk. I created a little pile of pinned fabric pieces
here. At this point I pin up and sew
ALLLLLLLLL the darts in the garment – so they are all done and ready for use.
Once sewn into place – give those darts a press. Horizontal
darts go downwards, vertical darts going outwards to the edges.
Step 4 – Bodice
Pin and sew the
shoulder seams of the front and back pieces. Do the same with the front and
back facings. Press the seams open. As the facings are going to have a raw edge
showing at the bottom, I overlocked the bottom edge of these pieces.
Place the facing and
bodice pieces, right sides together, on top of each other and lining up the
notches. Pin and stitch all the way around that neck opening as well as the arm
holes.
At the point of the v-neck – clip into the seam allowance
being careful not to snip the row of stitching you just made. This will allow
for a nice sharp point. I also clipped the curved seams at the armholes.
Pinch the fabric and
pull it all through the shoulder straps you have created.
Once the right way
out – give it all a press nice and flat. With right sides together – time to
stitch up the side seams!
Step 5 - Skirt
Next up I tackled the skirt in much the same way as the
bodice. Right sides facing – take your skirt pieces and sew up the side seams
so you have one long continuous skirt piece. How easy was that? You already did
the dart part!
Spread out your
bodice piece and attach the waistband, right sides facing, all the way across
the length of it, matching darts where appropriate. It should fit exactly. Sew
that up and go again with the skirt piece. Spread it out, pin and sew across
the entire midsection of your dress.
Step 7 – Zip it
up!
Now is the time to
add your zip to bring it all together. I’m not going to go into too much detail
about how to add this – I have a mini-tutorial on adding a concealed zip here if you’d like to use it. I also overlocked all the way down the back of the
dress so the raw edges were nice and neat.
As there is a facing on this dress – flip the facing up so
that the right sides of the garment are facing you. Pin your zip to the seam
allowance with the zip stopper right at the top of the back bodice piece as
shown in the pic. Insert your zip!
In order to get a nice finish on the facings – bend the facings back onto the zip – so the facing and back bodice are now right sides together. (Make sure the waggily bit of zipper tape at the top is pulled away to the raw edge side, out of the way of the garment and stitching you’re about to do).
In order to get a nice finish on the facings – bend the facings back onto the zip – so the facing and back bodice are now right sides together. (Make sure the waggily bit of zipper tape at the top is pulled away to the raw edge side, out of the way of the garment and stitching you’re about to do).
Stitch the facing
down on to the zip tape from this side. When you turn it all back the right
side out again it’s all in place!
All that remains is to finish the rest of the back seam!
All that remains is to finish the rest of the back seam!
Step 8 – Hemming
You’re nearly there! Time to finish off those seams. Turn up the hem and give it a good press before you stitch so it doesn’t move around. Stitch that hem and you’re all done!!
Step 9 – Get it
worn
We’d love to see what you made so don’t forget to show it
off and contact us on social media J
Feel free to comment and come and say hello on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Bloglovin too :-) xx
Feel free to comment and come and say hello on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Bloglovin too :-) xx
Frocktastic! Fab post and fab fabric,knocks the socks off my attempt. Really excited to see what everyone makes next.
ReplyDeleteFiona (coolarama)
Thank you! x
DeleteThis is such a beautiful dress. It fits you so well. Great print!
ReplyDeletethank you :-)
DeleteYour dress looks fab, it fits lovely and great tutorial, this pattern wasn't even on my radar
ReplyDeleteThanks! If you give it a try show us the pics :-)
DeleteYour dress looks great.
ReplyDeleteI know that it has been long now, but I have a question.
You mentioned that you chose size 12 for the top and 14 for waist and hips.
How did you linked both parts?
How did make the size 12 top with the size 14 waistband?
Hi! Sorry I just saw your comment :)
DeleteYou just have to gradually grade the sizes. So when you cut out the 12 top you gently slope between the guidelines until you reach the size 14 piece. If you google '#grade between pattern sizes' there should be a picture of how to do it x